Cairo’s Oldest Dye House
September 2020
Egypt is famously known for its tourism industry. It draws millions to the country to learn about its unique ancient history and view the most beautiful archaeological sites and the original Seven Wonders of the World, the Great Pyramids of Giza. Textile manufacturing is also one of the largest industries in Egypt. With Chinese investments, Egypt may become a significant player in the global textile export market. This investment will fund the phased build-out of Egypt’s most famous textile industrial park to over 590 factories by 2022. These factories will house state-of-the-art equipment, efficient processes, and low production costs. I spent a day in one local dye house in Cairo owned by Salama “Hag” Mahmoud to gain insights into his family business. I wanted to understand and document the dying techniques used and learn about the impact of competition from large factories and the global pandemic on his business.
Salama “Hag” Mahmoud (Owner)
Salama dye house is a family business, and his Artisans include his sons and grandkids. Salama’s dye house is the oldest in Cairo, Egypt, and he uses dyeing techniques that go back to the pharaonic period. The dye house was opened in 1901 in the historic El-Darb El-Ahmar neighborhood of Cairo and rented by Salama in 1975. His small business processes textiles such as silk, cotton, and wool to produce shoelaces, carpets, and towels, among other specialty garments.
Mohammed Camel (Artisan)
Salama’s dyeing method varies by textile but generally includes the following hands-on process:
Place textile thread on quarterstaffs (poles);
Submerge thread into a dying pool that consists of hot water and chemicals to apply color;
Stuff in the wringer to partially dry;
Hang on the roof of the dye house to completely dry.
Mahmoud "Samir" Salaman (Artisan)
Once the textiles have dried, they are bagged and distributed to clients in Egypt, the USA, Europe, and the Middle East.
Mohammed Mustafa (Artisan)
Salama admitted he faces competition from large-scale factories. Despite the competition, increased business costs, and decreased demand due to the COVID-19 global pandemic, his clients continue to value quality and pay the premium for his textiles. He remains optimistic that his business will withstand the current and foreseeable hurdles and remain operational within his family for generations.
